The three boats that feed this kitchen

We buy from three boats, and only from them. Agia Irini sets nets at night off the north cape and brings in red mullet and rockfish. Kyra Maria fishes with long lines for bream and the occasional grouper. Nikolas is the smallest boat in the harbour and the one that brings squid and picarel.

When the sea is rough, nobody goes out. On those days the catch board is short, and we say so. It is the reason the board exists: the menu tells you what we planned, the board tells you what the sea allowed.

We pay the boats the same price whether the day was good or bad, settled every Sunday at the corner table. That was Kyra Maria’s rule in 1979 and nobody has found a better one.