Why we hang our octopus in the sun

Every morning that the wind is from the north, you will see octopus hanging on a line outside our kitchen door. People take photographs. Some ask if it is decoration.

It is not. Two days in dry wind and sun draws the water out of the flesh, which means that when it hits the coals it chars instead of steaming. The texture tightens, the flavour concentrates, and the tentacles curl the way they do in every taverna photograph you have ever seen.

On a humid day we skip it and braise the octopus in wine instead. You will find that on the board, and it is very good too, but it is a different dish.